Marie Noelle Ledru

The "lady of the Pinot Noir" is the standard-bearer of the noble vine that reaches unequaled levels of solidity in the listed village of Ambonnay (... a bit like Chardonnay in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in Côte des Blancs). His shy and thoughtful character contrasts with the rigorous and expert approach that Marie Noëlle demonstrates in the vineyard and in the cellar. Only half of the harvest is vinified on its own: the rest is sold to maisons Deutz and Pol Roger. To define his cuvée he does not use wood and manages to give an almost "feminine" touch to the mas- tinity of this terroir. But the pleasures do not interest her: the tasting traits are so linear, sometimes austere if the vintage has not been generous. In any case, the "liquids from Ledru" are best expressed at meal time, where their substance "calls food"!